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Sunrise over a calm sea |
From Bali we headed back to
Australia cruising easily through the Arafura Sea. A little excitement at sea occurred when one of the passengers had to be air lifted by helicopter (the second such occurrence on this voyage) to Port Hedland and the apparent nearest land medical facility.
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Helicopter coming for our passenger |
We have been struck by the age and physical disability demographics of the passengers of this cruise and have jokingly referred to a Royal Caribbean "BOGO Wheelchair Deal" that many
passengers snapped up! But the excitement of the evacuation was short lived, and two sea days later, during
which we find the time to pass much more slowly, we moored in Darwin City.
Named after the English naturalist Charles Darwin, this settlement was founded
at the tip of a peninsula in the already isolated region of the Northern
Territory.
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Note the high and low water marks |
People slowly migrated to Darwin over time and it became an
important base for the Allies in WWII. A major bombing of Darwin on February 19,
1942 destroyed the city as did Cyclone Tracy in 1974. Its people’s resilience
to rebuild the city after every setback has today turned it into a bustling
metropolis and Australia’s fastest growing city. Its harbor and proximity to
several national parks makes Darwin a gateway for many of Australia’s best
outdoor activities.
Like so many other ports we
elected to do Darwin on our own. As we disembarked, we were struck by the extreme low water level indicative of an ebb tide and later learned that Darwin's tidal range can be up to 25 feet, a range which invariably produces extremely strong tidal currents.
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Swimming lagoon and park |
A short 15-minute walk put us in the heart of
Darwin’s business, government, and historic districts.
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Christ Church Cathedral |
We viewed the unique
architecture of Christ Church Cathedral which was originally built in 1902 and
destroyed by Cyclone Tracey. Incorporating part of the ruins of the original
structure, the church was rebuilt in 1975 with a modern award-winning design.
Next we saw the Old Town Hall which was built in 1883 and also destroyed by
Cyclone Tracey and today serves as an
outdoor theater.
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Old Town Hall |
Leaving the historic district we came to Darwin’s street mall
festively decorated for Christmas.
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Darwin's skyline | |
There were lots of souvenir shops so Jane
unleashed her shopping prowess and hit them all, some twice. After we finished
shopping we headed to the post office we had spotted on the map to mail some
post cards back to the states.
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Darwin's open air mall |
But at $2.75 per card, only a handful was sent
with the rest being mailed from within the states when we return. We returned
to the mall and happened upon an aboriginal dance demonstration that we watched
for a while.
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Aboriginal dance demonstration |
We walked back towards the waterfront and cruise terminal and
happened upon an oyster bar. We dropped in to have a couple of pints and
noticed that the bar had the coolest beer cooler we had ever seen.
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"Need new plan for iStick" |
Several
kinds of bottled beer were stacked on a pyramidal stainless steel structure and
crushed ice dropped from the ceiling onto the peak of the pyramid and falling
to the bottles below.
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Cooling off in Darwin mall |
We decided that if we were going to build a house, we
would build it around such a cooler! Returning to the ship, we were hot,
sweaty, and tired and took a nap after refreshing ourselves.
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Mother of all beer coolers! |
Our ship left
Darwin and headed east for our next Aussie stop- Cairns (pronounced CANS- yeah, we know!) and the Great Barrier
Reef.
Once again we had two sea days
from Darwin to Cairns and little to view until we came to the Queensland
Islands that marked the perimeter of the Great Barrier Reef in the Coral Sea.
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Now THAT'S a fender! |
Australia’s
maritime waters are peppered with over 8,000 islands ranging in size from
Tasmania, the largest, down to small, uninhabitable knobs, and many of the
larger islands are home to resort communities that are popular island escapes.
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One of the Queensland Islands |
Many of the most popular holiday islands are located in Australia’s tropical
northern, and northeastern regions, the area that we were currently cruising. We
attended a lecture on the Great Barrier Reef only to leave halfway through when
the lecturer, a licensed ship’s pilot that guided ships through the reef,
started talking more about piloting and ship navigation than the marine biology
of the reef.
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A reef among the islands |
Back in our starboard balcony cabin we had excellent views of the
northern Queensland Islands that came into view after the ship rounded the Cape
York Peninsula and started a southeasterly course.
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Big and little tenders, but really SLOW! |
It was Thanksgiving in
Australia, even though it was still only Wednesday back in America, and we
celebrated that evening with a turkey dinner with all the trimmings and
finished off with pumpkin pie.
The next morning we arrived in
Cairns. Located in tropical northern Queensland, Cairns is a popular portal for
holiday resort seekers. We had hoped to visit the Great Barrier Reef at this stop, but the only available reef shore excursion involved snorkeling or diving the reef only and no glass-bottom boats. Prudence guided us to a visit to the city instead. For us, getting into Cairns involved a 25-30 minute
tender ride to Yorkey’s Knob, followed by a 25 minute bus ride to the city of
Cairns.
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Our ship at Yorkey's Knob |
There were a large number of passengers disembarking to go to Cairns,
and for some reason the tendering process became bogged down.
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The lagoon at the park in Carins |
We experienced a
2-hour wait just to board the tender. Our late arrival in Cairns and the ship’s
early port departure limited the amount of time we had in the city. We were
dropped off in Fogarty Park which is adjacent to tourist and beach set shopping
and features a lagoon for swimmers that is connected to the ocean. In many
respects the area reminded us of Key West.
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Christmas in the park |
As usual, we encountered an open air
market with vendors selling a variety of handicrafts and snake oil. Jane took
charge to maximize shopping efficiency in the limited time we had, but after a
while Capt. Larry started to question her purchase of souvenirs to back up the
souvenirs she had already purchased.
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Back at the boating club |
We walked around a few more blocks and
realized that considering the transit time, our time ashore was just about
expended, if we wanted to avoid the last minute rush back to the ship. We boarded a
bus that took us back to Yorkey’s Knob. Our Aussie friends, Keith and Sheila,
had told us not to miss having a drink at the Yorkey’s Knob Boating Club, so we
stopped in before tendering back to the ship.
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Enjoying brews at the yacht club |
We had to sign the register and
Jane put us down a visiting members of the Killian Yacht Club which had worked
well for us before.
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View of the marina |
There’s always something special about afternoon drinks at
a marina bar, and we enjoyed the drinks, live music, and watching the boats in
the marina before heading back to the ship.
We spent the next two sea days
viewing more of the Queensland Islands, working on the blog, and relaxing by
the pool.
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More Aussie islands |
Brisbane would be our last port of call before landing in Sydney for
our journey back to the states.