Sunday, January 24, 2016

Enjoying the Florida Keys One Festival at a Time




Our first sunset


After 12 days and 3,003 nautical miles we disembark at the Miami cruise terminal, find our mini-van, load our luggage, and leisurely drive south for 69 miles on the Overseas Highway to the unincorporated city of Tavernier on Key Largo in Florida’s upper keys. This is where we will spend the month of January in a gulfside condo. After two u-turns and a cursing session with the GPS, we find our complex and condo. Initially, we are slightly disappointed with the unit’s location. From the pictures on the website we thought we were going to be staring at the water, but we find our unit couldn’t be any further away and not be on the highway. And it’s immediately obvious that we are going to have to deal with a lot of highway noise (there is always traffic on the Overseas). Oh, well, el comprador tenga cuidado, as they say 90 miles further south. On the plus side
Things are blooming in the Keys
we find that our unit has been handsomely remodeled over the summer. We get settled in, have happy hour, and cook some dinner.
Outboard mailbox!
Over the next few days we get more settled in and fall into our normal daily routine. Our daily walks allow us to explore different areas and neighborhoods, and in just a few days we are crazy in love with Tavernier. We have passed through the Keys several times on our way for a few days in Key West, and formed certain impressions about the different islands. The lower keys such as Big Pine Key have an RV-park and snowbird flavor to them and Key West is touristy. Marathon in the middle impresses as a sprawling series of trailer parks stretching along the Overseas for a considerable distance, punctuated by smaller less developed islands on either end. The upper keys are dominated by Key Largo and Islamorada with quaint little Tavernier in between. The town has a well documented history and we found many heritage buildings and homes. Except for the unrelenting Overseas traffic, the only way in and the only way out, Tavernier would be our ideal winter retreat. But it's close enough in all other respects. However, we weren’t too impressed with the weather. Rain, wind, colder-than-normal temperatures, and cloudy skies, in any combination, limited our fishing, sunbathing, and happy-hour sunset viewing most of the time. On lousy weather days we explored Key Largo and
Gettin' the Celtic on
Islamorada by car and made shopping trips up to Homestead and Florida City.

She knows what's under there!
Police also wore kilts
Parading the tartans
You knew there would be sheep!
Luckily the weather was good on our first weekend for a trip to a Celtic Festival at the Marathon Community Park. We arrived to a full primary parking lot, but as we were being rerouted to a secondary lot, a space opened very near the entrance. The festival featured live Celtic bands, Irish and Scottish dancing, Highland athletics and games, sheepdog herding, and Celtic food and merchandise vendors. We entered and started perusing the merchandise vendors while listening to a band, The Screaming Orphans, play their set.
Scottish Parrothead
A redheaded man in a kilt and Scottish Glengarry cap approached Capt. Larry and held his forearm next to his and cried, “You’ve got the right skin to be here, how many skin cancers have you had? I’ve had over twenty!” We exchanged information about dermatologists and skin cancer treatments for a few minutes, then moved on to view the offerings from the remaining vendors.
Bagpipers open the festival
We made our way to a Celtic food vendor to get some lunch.The haggis looked mighty tasty, but the fish and chips looked even tastier. We got a large order to split, a couple of beers, and found a shaded spot at a food court tent.
And sheep, of course!
As we ate our lunch and listened to the next band
, Rathkeltair, a fairly renowned Celtic band so we were told, and watched some pretty hefty young women participate in a Highland weight throw on a field just behind our tent. It seemed though, that their efforts were more of an exhibit than a competition and their hearts didn’t really seem to be into it (it was getting pretty warm by now). We finished our lunch but kept our shaded spot by making continuous beer purchases and acting like we were still feasting. The band finished its set and the opening ceremonies began, led by the Miami-based Police Pipe and Drum Corps of Florida. The color guard, bagpipers, and a parade of the tartan flags of various Scottish clans provided a colorfully vibrant start to the ceremonies. After the opening, we listened to Celtic bands Albannach, Marcielle Wallis and Friends, finishing with West of Galway (we’ve been to Galway on Ireland’s western coast and there’s nothing west of it except the North Atlantic Ocean and the New World!). We left the festival, sorry for not being able to stick around for the haggis hurling competition, and had an easy ride back to the condo.
Working on the perspective
Lobster bisque
Capt. Lar's lobster
During the next week, Jane spent most of her time working on a painting project (Capt. Larry was a huge help identifying the picture’s vanishing points), while Capt. Larry tried to stay warm. Our daily walks, drives to nearby communities, and another run to Homestead took up most of our time. Come Friday we loaded up the mini-van and drove 90 miles down to Key West.  Our
Bananas foster

daughter, Milana, and partner Tracey, were flying intoKey West for a weekend vacation and to meet us to go to the Key West Seafood Festival. We had made reservations for two nights at a hotel so we could enjoy a little of Key West again, and also not have to worry about a long drive after we’ve been drinking at the festival. We met up with the girls at their condo on the Key West Bight for a few drinks before dinner. In the marina outside their condo, we spotted a first-time looper flying the white American Great Loop Cruising Association (AGLCA) burgee. After touring their complex, we all headed over to the very fine A&B Lobster House restaurant for dinner. Of course, as the courses rolled out Jane provided the blog with lots of dinner images. We finished our great dinner with a table-split of bananas foster dessert and headed back
Key West Seafood Festival
to our hotel. The next morning we exercised by walking along North Roosevelt Road and the Salt Pond Keys and returning to our room to clean up. We cleaned up, and drove to the seafood festival grounds. Once again we just missed our parking lot. We
Elementary steel drum band
were the third car from the gate when they announced the lot was full, and we were redirected to an alternate lot. As we were negotiating the narrow streets, luck struck again. A mini-compact pulled out not 50 feet from the festival’s entrance. With Jane directing, we squeezed the mini-van into
Too much seafood!
the space. It was tight when a young dude came out and offered to pull his car in front of us ahead to give us a little more room to negotiate an exit. We entered the festival and began viewing the vendor offerings. There were some live bands, and after we had made a round we pitched our fold-up chairs and listened to the music. A short time later Milana and
Plating the fettuccine
Tracey appeared and we staked out an area and made food and beer runs for a couple of hours. We decided it was time to head back to our hotel before things started getting out of hand. Saying goodbye, we left and crashed for the evening. The next morning, as a major storm descended on the island, we checked out and headed back to our Tavernier condo, the girls a couple of hours behind us.
Capt. Larry's creation
They were going to spend a couple of nights with us. After they arrived and got settled in, Capt. Larry cooked dinner – garlic buttered shrimp fettuccine. Yummmmm! We exercised together the next morning, drove them to a farmers and flea market, and showed them some Tavernier residential areas, before taking them out to a very popular Key Largo seafood restaurant.
Jane's creation
They left the next morning to drive to Ft. Lauderdale to catch a flight home. It was a really nice get together for all of us.

festival 041.JPG
Anyone care for a lobster???


Monday, January 11, 2016

We End Our Cruise Witih Visits to St. Lucia and Antigua



Sunrise in St. Lucia


Next verse, same as the first.  After another overnight cruise we wake up in the port and capital of Castries, St. Lucia. The island has been part of the British Commonwealth since 1803, but prior to that it was often occupied by the French as evidenced by much of St. Lucia’s culture.
St. Lucia landscape
Someone on board told us that St. Lucia was not a very safe place for individuals to wander around, and based on this information we booked a shore excursion. Our excursion was described as a “panoramic tour” of the island and once we boarded our bus we started to ascend Morne Fortune, the“Hill of Good Luck,” a
mountain that had 180° switchbacks and a grade so steep that we wondered if we had ever been on any steeper (and we’ve see some steep grades!). Numerous battles between French and British soldiers were waged on this slope during the 200-year colonial tug of war.

At the top was Fort Charlotte and a beautiful panoramic vista of Castries Harbor. The buildings of Fort Charlotte have been renovated and now house the Sir Arthur Lewis Community College, St. Lucia’s only institution of higher learning.
Home of St. Lucia's governess
Caribelle Batik
Sir Arthur Lewis Community College
More orchids
To attend a university, St. Lucia students must leave the island. Castries was built on an extinct volcanic crater and over the years fires and volcanic eruptions destroyed many of its colonial heritage buildings. We left Fort Charlotte and rode through St. Lucia’s lush rain forest landscapes, finally arriving at Caribelle Batik. Here we saw a batik demonstration which is an art form technique of wax-resist dyeing of cloth. Batik is primarily performed in Indonesian and South Pacific countries, but was presented to us as a West Indies creation. We browsed the gift shop and made a few purchases, including St. Lucia’s famed banana ketchup (it’s really good!). We continued our tour, riding through some more breathtaking scenery until we arrived at a private villa named Stony Hill. This residence is situated high atop a ridge in north St. Lucia and used for weddings, retreats, and parties of all kinds. As we arrived, the staff was setting up for a New Year’s Eve party for 700 people. The property was purchased by a retired British neurosurgeon and turned into a business. We were served refreshments and encouraged to tour the property. One really neat feature of the gardens was the labeling of all of the trees, shrubs, and flowers we viewed. We observed the gardens with beautifully cascading magenta bougainvillea and made our way down (and it was quite a drop) to the orchid house to view the orchid collection. It was great. Great, that is, until we had to ascend some stairs about 200 feet back up to the house (there were a series of ramps going down, but the steeper stairs considerably shorter).

Beautiful orchids
After we caught our breath, we said goodbye to the owner and boarded our bus. Our return to the ship was delayed about an hour due to a major wreck and traffic jam a couple of miles from Castries. We picked up a few souvenirs at some of the shops in the cruise terminal, and had a couple of locally brewed Piton beers, before boarding the ship.


Our last port of call- St. John’s Antigua. Christopher Columbus sighted the island and named it after Santa Maria la Antigua, but it wasn’t settled until British settlers arrived in the late 1600’s to introduce sugar crops to the island.
St. John's shopping district
At its peak, the island had more than 150 cane-processing windmills. Admiral Horatio Nelson established Antigua as Great Britain’s most important Caribbean base in 1784, and slavery was abolished in 1834.
This history today affords Antigua visitors a culture rich in African and British influences, and with its ideal climate, beautiful landscapes, leisurely lifestyle, and 365 beaches- one for every day of the year, tourists are easily attracted to this tropical paradise.

We're joined by other ships
We had hoped that we could visit Nelson’s Dockyard, but after finding out that it was 12 miles from the cruise terminal, we decided to stick to the shopping district which was located in the heart of St. John’s.
All the ships in Antigua
Jane immediately found a shoe shop that had several pairs that were calling her name. The shopping district is divided into the comfortable tourist’s shops (within sight of the ships), a newer section featuring the chic island options, and the downright gritty people’s market that we ventured into for that local flavor that only stepping over dog shit in the street will give you.
Sunset leaving St. Lucia
In the people’s market we encountered this huge bust of some black political dude staring into space at what might just be the star Polaris. At this market we started to feel that we were really out of place (we couldn’t see any other obvious tourists), so we started to make our way back to Jane’s shoe store.
Rusty pilot boat
Believe it or not, she found a pair of shoes that she liked and could live with. We meandered through several other shops before finally settling down for a couple of local beers at a café near the cruise terminal.
St. John's
We finished our beers and re-boarded the ship. Back aboard, Jane went to High Tea that was offered daily by the ship. Capt. Larry watched football games while she had High Tea, but thought that this event was something that he should have attended.
High tea
We had to make Miami in two days, so we left Antigua early for our 2 sea-days cruise to bring it all to an end.
More high tea!               


What a great trip!