The Eastern Erie Canal- Waterford to Three Rivers

A typical lock & dam

Erie Lock #2- our first Erie Canal lock

Inside a Waterford Flight lock

Lock #4, ready and waiting

Guard Gate #1

We spent one night in Waterford. It was raining early the next morning, so we decided to not leave and enter the canal until the rain let up. The forecast was for light showers off and on all day long. Conditions were not the best, but we also knew that major storm activity was not predicted. We cast off our lines around 0930 and entered Lock #2, the second of 35 locks we would transit. There are five closely space locks (#2-6) and two Guard Gates (#1 and #2) near Waterford that are referred to as the Waterford Flight. Each lock rises or falls about 34 feet, so in a distance of approximately 2 miles you are raised or lowered around 170 feet. This is twice the elevation of the entire Panama Canal! We entered the first lock and were secured to a rubber coated cable (similar concept to the pipe) when it started raining. Since this was our first lock, we had to process some paperwork to purchase a canal pass. The lockmasters are the greatest and walked our paperwork between the office and the boat so we wouldn't have to go through the rain (not that this made any difference because we were already wet!).

Some debris NOT floating in the water

Cruising down the Mohawk River

Because we were the only boat locking through at this time, we transited the Waterford Flight in a very short time, then went through four more locks and around 30 miles before arriving at Amersterdam, NY. Here we tied up to a municipal dock for $1/foot which included electric, water, showers, and a laundry. After we were secured, we met Rich & Carol Nick aboard Salt 'n Sand home ported in Cape May, NJ. We decided to all have dinner at the restaurant at the dock, and it turned out to be a fabulous meal with fantastic company.

A happy little girl wearing our Mardi Gras beads

Bavarian Cream visits Canajahorie

Relaxing at the Canajahorie dock

Getting ready for the next lock

We toyed with the idea of spending an extra day in Amsterdam. We needed to do laundry, and a day of rest would be welcomed. However, after talking it over, we decided to move on after the laundry was done. Coming out of our last lock the day before, we hit a submerged tree and brought it to the surface. Immediately we had a bad vibration at mid rpms and figured we dinged a prop. We figured it would be better to move on in case we had to have the boat hauled and a prop repaired in a boatyard in the Finger Lakes. We didn't want to waste time if we had to spend extra days for repair work. We finished the laundry and headed on very close to noon. We had around 24 miles and 3 locks to transit to make it to Canajahorie, NY. The run to Canjahorie was uneventful and we arrived around 1530 and tied up at the free dock. Not only was the dockage free, but electric and water were provided at no charge. One could really get used to Erie Canal cruising. Jane talked to some park visitors to find out about the town. A young woman that she spoke with said that she worked at a very nearby restaurant called the Elephant Bistro and that tonight was mexican night and she was the one who made the nachos. So, when it came time to eat, we found the Elephant Bistro and had nachos and a combination platter that was really delicious. We went back to the boat and crashed for the night.

The next morning we got ready to go another 24 miles and 5 locks to Ilion, NY, home of Remington Arms (the gunmakers). We called for reservations at the Ilion Marina and headed out. The trip to Ilion was uneventful. We passed through 5 locks and, according to the gps altitude had risen to 357' above sea level. We came to the famed Lock #17.

The lift gate of Lock #17

This is the largest lift of all the Erie Canal locks (40') and is unique in that there are not lock gates to pass through but a gate is lifted over the canal and the boats pass under the gate which is then closed. Supposedly there is only one other lock like this in North America in Canada. It was pretty impressive.

The gate closes on Lock #17

The Ilion marina was reallly first class, perfectly manicured, clean, and really helpful service. We enjoyed our brief stay here. The next morning we headed for Sylvan Beach, NY. Sylvan Beach is on the eastern shore of Lake Oneida and is a lively resort area with a good sized sand beach, a 1950's amusement park, and all of the eating and shopping establishments that come with typical resort community.

Rock climbing by Lock #17

At this point on the Erie Canal we have departed from the Mohawk River and are running in man-made ditches.

Debris removal on the canal

Today we would pass through 4 locks, two up and two down. We made it to Sylvan Beach and tied up at the free dock on the terminal wall.

Happy hour on Joysea

There ahead of us were loopers Steve & Linda Franks aboard Yesterday's Dream and Indianians Dave & Joyce Johnson on Joysea. We all had happy hour aboard Joysea and had dinner on our boats. Later, Jane & Capt. Larry walked into town to pick up a few items at a small grocery. When we got back to the boat we watched another of Todd's movies and crashed into bed. The locks are taking their toll....

Crossing Lake Oneida with looper boats

Lookin' good!

Getting ready to be worked on

The Wal-Mart run

The next morning we left with the other two looper boats and headed across Lake Oneida. We had an easy day planned and decided to stop at a marina in Brewerton, NY and have Bavarian Cream hauled out to see what here bottom side looked like. If we needed any hull or running gear work, this would be a good place to have it done. At the very least we had traveled almost 2,800 miles and figured she should at least have here bottom washed. Most boats don't get that many miles in 5 years. The marina staff was really great and accommodating. We borrowed the courtesy car and made the obligatory Wal-Mart run and waited for the boat to be hauled the next day. The boat was hauled and to our relief, the props were in great shape. Is Capt. Larry one helluva skipper or what? We did have a cutlass bearing that had slid halfway down the shaft and was resting on the shaft zinc, and the thought was that might be causing some vibration at certain times. Also we had a loose port prop nut that was only finger tight and considered ourselves really lucky that we hadn't lost a prop. These repairs were done and new zincs and a pressure wash and we were back in the water. It amazed us how good the bottom looked.

Turn right for Canada

The next day we continued westward on the Erie Canal, heading for Baldwinsville. We came to Three Rivers which is where the Erie Canal, Seneca River, and Oswego River join. Capt. Larry told Jane that a right turn would take us to Canada and this was here last chance, but she had her mind made up to run the rest of the Erie Canal. We went through two more locks and finally berthed at the Baldwinsville terminal wall. What a great place. Electric, water, great company with other boaters, and all of this for $5 a night. We had dinner on the boat, talked about where we would head to next, and sat through a pretty good thunderstorm. All in a day's play.....

Up the Hudson River- NYC to Waterford

Bye, bye, NYC

We left our marina in NYC to head up the Hudson River and get into the NY Canal System. We timed our departure to coincide with slack water so we wouldn't have to fight the really strong tidal currents. The skies were overcast and it was going to be a dreary day. Our plans were to go into an anchorage in Haverstraw Bay, just a few miles short of West Point. This was only going to be around a 30 mile day, and because we left fairly early, we ambled our way up the river on an incoming tide. We were doing around 7 kts. at idle speed.

Grant's Tomb (cupola)

George Washington Bridge

Harlem at the Harlem River

Yonkers

Palisades

Tappan Zee light

The first sight we saw was Grant's tomb. We wanted to stop to see if anyone knew who was actually buried there, but decided to keep going. Next came Harlem and the Harlem River. We couldn't identify where the Clintons were living, but knew that they were in there somewhere. We passed under the George Washington and Tappan Zee bridges, passed the Palisades and Yonkers, then settled in for a leisurely excursion to Haverstraw Bay. We were hooked up with looper friends Dickie & Dixie, and Larry & Linda that we stayed with in NYC. We got to our anchorage around 1300, set the hook and relaxed and read our books for the greater part of the afternoon. Larry & Linda were also anchored with us, but Dickie & Dixie went further upriver to find a marina. In the anchorage, Capt. Larry reworked the BBQ grill which was banged around a couple of times coming into different slips. When he finished, the grill was presentable and didn't show too many signs of excessive abuse.

Bear Mountain Bridge

West Point

Go Army!

Hudson Valley highlands

Ruins at Pollepel Island

Vanderbilt mansion

Esopus Meadows light

Kingston light

Saugerties light

Hop-O-Nose marina

The next morning we were underway around 0630. We planned to do a 70+ mile day and make it into a marina in Catskill, NY. The skies were overcast again and threatening rain, but we again hooked up with an incoming tide and rode that practically the entire trip, making really good time. Shortly after we got underway we passed West Point, and just beyond the academy is the deepest part of the Hudson River which is charted as "World's End." When we passed over this hole the depth sounder read 179' making it the deepest water we will traverse on the loop. We are now in the Hudson Valley highlands and the scenery is absolutely captivating. We passed Pollepel Island which was used by an early 1900's arms merchant to store his goods. Lightening strikes and lack of use have now reduced these warehousing structures to ruins. As we passed the Newburgh Bridge, we got a radio call from Dickie and Dixie who saw us go by from their marina. We passed Poughskeepie and shortly after that Hyde Park. Hyde Park was the home of FDR, and is the home of Vanderbilt Mansion and the Culinary Institute. Also notable is the end of the salt water just a few miles further north around Esopus Island. Further north, we start to see a number of lighthouses that look more like houses than the tower-type lights seen along the coast. The southern sections of the Hudson are characterized by wide, deep channels with few islands or flats. Conversely, the upper sections of the river are peppered with numerous islands, mid-channel flats, and are fed by numerous creeks and streams. We made our way to Catskill Creek where the Hop-O-Nose Marina is located.

Jane kayaks on Catskill Creek

We would be spending two nights here to get some boat chores, fueling, and provisioning done before heading into the Erie Canal. It was a really pleasant stay. On the second day we were joined by Larry & Linda who would have their mast stepped before entering the canals.

Middle Ground Flats light

Coming into Albany

Troy lock & dam

Riding the pipe up 16 feet

The dam from the filled lock

We turn left

We left Hop-O-Nose's and headed for Albany, Troy, and Waterford, the start of the Erie Canal. It was a relatively uneventful trip until we got to the Troy Lock and Dam. Capt. Larry radioed the lockmaster and the gates were opened. Unlike the previous locks we experienced, this lock was equipped with vertical standpipes. One loops a line secured to an amidships cleat and holds the boat to the wall during the ride. It was up to Jane to get this line looped and hold the boat to the wall until Capt. Larry could leave the helm to assist. All that we will report is that this was a really emotional moment for her. She did, however, do an excellent job of securing the line and holding the boat until help arrived. Her biggest fear, of course, was losing the boat and causing us to drift in the lock. Unless one has previously performed these maneuvers, it's not something for weak-kneed individuals. But Jane was a real trooper. After the lock we made our way to the juncture of the Erie Canal and the Champlain Canal. We turned west to Waterford and tied up at the free dock. That night we ordered pizza and relaxed while we read about traversing the Erie Canal.

Hitching a ride on a debris taxi!

A Commentary (Rant) on New York's Municipal Marina

Everyone was asking us what marina we were going to stay in when we reached NYC. Our first inclination was to stay at Liberty Landing or Liberty Harbor marinas on the Jersey side. These marinas were pricey ($6/foot at Liberty Landing = $240/night for Bavarian Cream, or $3/foot = $120 at Liberty Harbor). Additionally there's usually a $5-10 charge per night for electricity. Now we're not the most traveled couple, and for NYC that probably sounds like deal, but remember, we're sleeping on the boat, do not get a fresh change of linens each day, we don't have room service, and if something goes wrong with the accommodations, it's up to us to get it fixed. Someone once said that boating is the most expensive way of traveling third class.......

We we met a couple of boaters in Cape May, NJ and were advised to stay at the 79th Street Boat Basin, NYC's municipal marina. This recommendation was based on previous experience as an ideal location which was near a lot of attractions and with easy access to public transportation. So, after we left Cape May, we called the marina to make reservations. Oooops! No can do as space is available only on a first come, first serve basis. But their rates were only $2.75/foot. However, not wanting to get to NYC and not have a marina to go into, we called and made reservations at Liberty Harbor. Here we were told that there was a deposit of 10% of our total bill. Since we planned to stay four nights that worked out to around $50 for the deposit. As we talked about it on our way to Barnegat Inlet, we convinced ourselves that we should try to get into the municipal marina. The difference in dockage rates between the two would just about cover the deposit at Liberty Landing, and besides, we would find it so much more convenient.

Our slip- piling's wearin' a little thing!

Dock is tilted to remove debris!

The dinghy dock

They made it look easy on "Survivor"

Almost on "terra firma"

Well, as you know, we made it to NYC and to the 79th Street Boat Basin. However, getting into our assigned slip was another matter. The slips were angled and we had to enter the basin perpendicular to the Hudson River, turn hard to port followed by a hard starboard turn to get to the "alley" our slip was on and then swing to port and angle into the slip. All of this maneuvering had to occur over about 30 yards and we had a 4-5 kt. tidal current on the port side and winds of around 15 kts. on the bow. Plus we had two dockhands that were more interested in marveling at how close we were coming to the other boats and pilings than handling the lines. Had one of them thought to grab a portside bowline so Capt. Larry could spring off of it, it would have helped immensely. We banged our way into the slip and got tied up. The only silver lining was that they could not accept tips, which we offered only because they seemed to know how to belay a cleat! We got our electric hooked up and hooked up the water. Capt. Larry noticed that there were two sets of water outlets, one which worked and one which didn't. When he asked a sail boater a couple of slips down if the water was "potable," he got a blank look and a "what do you mean?" After explaining to this Einstein if the water was "drinkable," the response sharpened to a "I wouldn't drink one schmidgen of this water, ever!" We knew that we would be needing to take on water after an extended stay, so Jane went and asked the marina staff who said the water was perfectly safe to drink.

We went to cancel our reservations at Liberty Harbor, and after a few minutes of fumbling around were told that there was no record of our reservation. We panicked, because Jane said that the receptionist that took her information had an Indian accent. We checked credit card transactions, though, and didn't find any charges we would have to dispute. It just saved us our $50 deposit.

Waddaya mean, safety code violation?

Latest trend in NY designer boats!

A mite scruffy

Only heat, no A/C

Rusted railing, no problem!

The restroom sans soap x 3 days

We got checked in and went to clean up. Folks, the shower, which there was only one was one of the filthiest that we had seen. The toilet wasn't much better but it did flush well. Capt. Larry braved the shower conditions, but Jane decided to take a spit bath back on the boat. While most visitors are enamored with the sites and attractions NYC has to offer, this marina is an example of how broken some things in NYC can get. We picked up a brochure about the marina which touted it as Mayor Bloomberg's clean and green marina. We found this concept to be an oxymoron, because this part of the Hudson river is filled with trash. We had to clean our A/C water strainer twice a day, every day, just to keep the water flowing. There is a significant tidal current, so all sorts of flotsam rolls by. There are tremendous wakes that roll from the water taxis and river traffic through the marina constantly. This does die down some at night, but during the day the boat would roll so hard that a couple of times we started to get nauseated. There are floating docks, but most of the docks are in need of repair. Capt. Larry started pulling nails that were sticking 3-4" out of the wood, because he was certain that Jane would not see them and trip. On the docks there are no railings or safety lines and trying to get to another part of the marina to visit friends was almost impossible. And the staff was something else. When Jane checked in she was served by an African-American employee that was so stupid he didn't know how to multiply the daily rate times four nights on a calculator. After a couple of pregnant minutes, Jane told him it would be $440 which he accepted and charged her for, then forgetting to add the electric charge. So we got a $40 break.

Outside of these shortcomings though, the marina was conveniently located to a lot of things that we wanted to do. If you do decide to come here, however, we would probably recommend a mooring ball. You'll still have a lot of the aggravation that we had, but at least for $30 a night you will probably be more accepting and complain a little less........

Urban geese and their gosling- the future's so bright he has to shield his eyes!