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In the national park |
We had another early start the following morning. It was
optional, but if we wanted to take a horse-drawn buggy ride through the
Killarney National Park, we had to be at the buggy pick-up area by 0730.
We had
a quick breakfast and headed out into a drizzling rain. After everyone was
loaded up, Ned, our driver, cracked a crop on Billie’s behind (the horse’s ass)
and off we went. The park comprises some 27,000 acres and, like most national
parks, has a diverse ecology, and has been designated a UNESCO Biosphere
Reserve. Within the park one can find oak and yew woodlands and Ireland’s only
native herd of red deer.
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Ross Castle |
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Lough Leane |
We rode through some heavily wooded sections and
finally came to Ross Castle, a
15th-century tower house on the shore of Lough Leane. We exited the carriage to
tour the castle, but the viewing was very limited as access to the upper levels
was closed.
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St. Mary's Cathedral |
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Another view of the castle |
Our driver headed us back toward Killarney where we passed by the
beautiful St. Mary’s Cathedral, one of the best examples of the Gothic Revival
churches of the 19th century.
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Riding through the park |
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View from the Ring of Kerry |
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The bridge to Valencia |
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Fishing seaport village of Portmagee |
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Skellig Islands in distance |
We boarded our bus and headed west toward Killorglin which
would start us on the Ring of Kerry. The Ring of Kerry is an approximately 110 mile circular
tourist route in County Kerry, southwestern Ireland. We proceeded along the route to the small towns of Glenbeigh and Cahirciveen. We wish we could
have stopped to explore these delightful little burgs. A little ways past
Cahirciveen we crossed a bridge that put us on Valencia Island (pop. 665, 2011),
one of Ireland’s most western points.
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Looking out to the Atlantic |
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We have no idea! |
Valencia was the eastern terminus of the first commercially
viable transatlantic telegraph cable. The island is also host to a heritage
center which tells the story of the geology, human, natural and industrial history
of the island and a group of four small islands that lie approximately 7 miles
offshore, the Skellig Islands. These islands jut up abruptly out of the sea
creating sheer pinnacles that would seem to be uninhabitable merely by the
imposing geology.
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Coastal view on the Ring of Kerry |
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A sandy beach |
However, one of the islands, Skellig Michael, served as a
monastic outpost of the Early Christian period. Founded between the 6th
and 8th centuries and abandoned in the 12th, the complex
created by the monks, literally carved out of the mountain, presents an image
that is incomprehensible.
The site is very well preserved and is a designated
UNESCO World Heritage Site.
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Coastal Ireland |
|
A real thatched roof |
Our tour did not allow time for us to actually
visit Skellig Michael, but we were able to watch a remarkable film about the
island and the monastery at the Skellig Experience Visitor Center on Valencia
Island. We arrived at the visitor center at lunchtime, and the first
order of business was to eat. Capt. Larry had Irish lamb stew and a local beer, while Jane settled for a less gastronomically challenging quiche
lorraine. After lunch we toured exhibits on the cable station, and another
about a marine radio station that was once in use. We viewed another exhibit
about the Valentia lifeboat station that had performed a number of rescue
operations since its opening in 1864. After the exhibits, we were ushered into
a theater where we watched a film about Skellig Michael and the monastery. We
went outside to take some pictures of the shipping channel that leads to the
Atlantic and the surrounding settlements.
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Church on the Ring of Kerry |
We boarded our bus and headed back out
on the Ring of Kerry towards Waterville and Caherdaniel. The scenery was
stunning. In fact, we felt that the images we had to take of the countryside
would be so unworthy of its natural beauty, we refer our readers to a Google
image site for some fantastic views at this link:
Ring of Kerry .
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View near Sneem |
We drove on along the coast to the village of
Sneem where Charlie Chaplin and his family spent a lot of time over a number of
years, and some family members still return annually. We fell in love with these little villages and would like to return and rent a condo for a couple of summer months, probably around Sneem (if it's good enough for Charlie...). We left Sneem and drove
on to Kenmare, another beautiful little town, before ending our Ring of Kerry
tour back at our hotel in Killarney. We had happy hour with Frank and Carol
Ann, had a light dinner, and called it a day.
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