The Cliffs of Moher, Bunratty Castle, and Durty Nellys

Crossing the River Shannon

Another early morning; driven by the necessity to catch a ferry that adheres to a tight schedule. We had breakfast, boarded our bus (it’s always the same one and driver), and headed for a ferry terminal that was approximately 3 hours away. We arrived at the terminal and waited for the ferry to cross over. We were crossing the River Shannon (Abhainn na Sionainne in Gaelic), the longest river in Ireland at 224 miles. The Shannon River Basin is huge and drains about 20% of the land area of Ireland. The river also divides western Ireland from the east and south and presents a major east-west barrier with fewer than 30 crossing points along its length. Our ferry finally arrived and we boarded on our bus. As the ferry was starting to make its crossing, we got off the bus and ran into Jim and Sue Birke again.

Hiking up to the cliffs

We guess all the tour groups do the same thing at the same time. We chatted with them, took some photos, and boarded our bus as it was coming to the terminus.

The Cliffs of Moher are located on the southwestern edge of County Clare (we don’t know how many times we were reminded that this was our bus driver’s county!), and rise up 400-700 feet above the Atlantic Ocean. The cliffs are one of the most popular tourist attractions with over one million visitors a year.

At the cliffs

We viewed the exhibits in the visitor’s center and had a snack in the cafeteria with Frank and Carol Ann, before hiking up- it’s a fairly good hike, to view the cliffs. What a view!

View of the cliffs

The precipitous rise of the cliffs were beautifully inspiring and intimidating.

The cliffs and the Atlantic

We took a number of photos, but it was evident that even our expensive, wide-angle lens was not going to do full justice to what we were seeing. The cliffs are mainly beds of shale and sandstone, and one can see the “holes” and channels cut through the rock by ancient rivers.

At the cliffs with the Birkes

We decided to go up a little higher to O’Brien’s Tower for some different views, and when we were halfway there, we ran into Jim and Sue Birke again.

Obrien's Tower

This was becoming a habit. We took some group photos, and then parted ways wondering when these encounters would end.

Looking out over the Atlantic

The tower provided some more spectacular views, even though we elected not to ascend it.

Obrien's Tower up close

Since we were pretty well “Mohered out,” we headed back to the visitor’s center for a restroom break before boarding our bus for the day’s final stop- Bunratty Castle.

Harp player at the cliffs

Bunratty Castle (Caisleán Bhun Raithe, meaning "Castle at the Mouth of the Ratty" in Gaelic) is a 15th century tower house in County Clare, Ireland (where our bus driver’s from- for the 20^th time!).

Bunratty Castle- in COUNTY CLARE!

It is located in the center of Bunratty Village between Limerick and Ennis. We checked into the castle hotel where we would be spending the night and got settled in. After a short rest, Jane decided that she wanted to visit some of the local shops.

Bunratty Castle Hotel

Capt. Larry was right there with her to help her out! We had a great time and picked up some nice souvenirs. Capt. Larry found a really nice Irish woven sweater.

Inside our hotel

Each clan has a unique weave, and after examining the book of weaves, we were pretty sure his sweater was from the McHugh clan.

Another hotel shot

But it really doesn’t matter, because he just loves the garment regardless of its background.

At Durty Nelly's

We left the shops and headed to Durty Nelly’s, a legendary and historical watering hole established in 1620 (everything's old in Europe). Capt. Larry ordered drinks, while Jane headed up to the castle to see the sights. Jane returned, and we were joined by Frank and Carol Ann for another drink.

Our piper

We moved the party to a Bunratty Castle bar where we had another round in the lounge.

You take the low road...

In the Great Hall

Great Hall entertainers

Enjoying a glass of mead

Hope your hands are clean!

After dinner entertainers

After drinks and a refreshing cleanup, we reassembled at the castle for a medieval dinner. The Bunratty Castle Medieval Banquet tradition of hospitality is fifty years old, a testament its enjoyment and success. When you arrive at Bunratty Medieval Castle Banquet, a kilted piper plays a tune of welcome. You ascend the castle steps crossing over the drawbridge to the 'Bite of Friendship' offered by one of the hostesses.

Upon entering the Great Hall, resplendent with tapestries and furniture of the 16th Century, we savored a goblet of mead while mingling with the ladies of the castle.

We were seated, and a sumptuous four course dinner with fine wines was served, while the dulcet tones of the ladies of the castle and an Irish harp and fiddle entertained us. As would be in medieval times, there was no silverware or china service, so we were eating our dinner with our hands. Interesting! As the last meal course came out, a troupe of entertainers presented the dinner entertainment of medieval Irish traditional songs and instrumental music. We thoroughly enjoyed the banquet, but, due to the long day, we were glad to see it end so we could sleep! And that is what we ended up doing.

The Most Beautiful Part of Ireland- The Ring of Kerry

In the national park

We had another early start the following morning. It was optional, but if we wanted to take a horse-drawn buggy ride through the Killarney National Park, we had to be at the buggy pick-up area by 0730.  

We had a quick breakfast and headed out into a drizzling rain. After everyone was loaded up, Ned, our driver, cracked a crop on Billie’s behind (the horse’s ass) and off we went. The park comprises some 27,000 acres and, like most national parks, has a diverse ecology, and has been designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Within the park one can find oak and yew woodlands and Ireland’s only native herd of red deer.

Ross Castle

Lough Leane

We rode through some heavily wooded sections and finally came to Ross Castle, a 15th-century tower house on the shore of Lough Leane. We exited the carriage to tour the castle, but the viewing was very limited as access to the upper levels was closed.

St. Mary's Cathedral

Another view of the castle

Our driver headed us back toward Killarney where we passed by the beautiful St. Mary’s Cathedral, one of the best examples of the Gothic Revival churches of the 19th century.

Riding through the park

View from the Ring of Kerry

The bridge to Valencia

Fishing seaport village of Portmagee

Skellig Islands in distance

We boarded our bus and headed west toward Killorglin which would start us on the Ring of Kerry. The Ring of Kerry is an approximately 110 mile circular tourist route in County Kerry, southwestern Ireland. We proceeded along the route to the small towns of Glenbeigh and Cahirciveen. We wish we could have stopped to explore these delightful little burgs. A little ways past Cahirciveen we crossed a bridge that put us on Valencia Island (pop. 665, 2011), one of Ireland’s most western points.

Looking out to the Atlantic

We have no idea!

Valencia was the eastern terminus of the first commercially viable transatlantic telegraph cable. The island is also host to a heritage center which tells the story of the geology, human, natural and industrial history of the island and a group of four small islands that lie approximately 7 miles offshore, the Skellig Islands. These islands jut up abruptly out of the sea creating sheer pinnacles that would seem to be uninhabitable merely by the imposing geology.

Coastal view on the Ring of Kerry

A sandy beach

However, one of the islands, Skellig Michael, served as a monastic outpost of the Early Christian period. Founded between the 6^th and 8^th centuries and abandoned in the 12^th, the complex created by the monks, literally carved out of the mountain, presents an image that is incomprehensible.

The site is very well preserved and is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Coastal Ireland

A real thatched roof

Our tour did not allow time for us to actually visit Skellig Michael, but we were able to watch a remarkable film about the island and the monastery at the Skellig Experience Visitor Center on Valencia Island. We arrived at the visitor center at lunchtime, and the first order of business was to eat. Capt. Larry had Irish lamb stew and a local beer, while Jane settled for a less gastronomically challenging quiche lorraine. After lunch we toured exhibits on the cable station, and another about a marine radio station that was once in use.  We viewed another exhibit about the Valentia lifeboat station that had performed a number of rescue operations since its opening in 1864. After the exhibits, we were ushered into a theater where we watched a film about Skellig Michael and the monastery. We went outside to take some pictures of the shipping channel that leads to the Atlantic and the surrounding settlements.

Church on the Ring of Kerry

We boarded our bus and headed back out on the Ring of Kerry towards Waterville and Caherdaniel. The scenery was stunning. In fact, we felt that the images we had to take of the countryside would be so unworthy of its natural beauty, we refer our readers to a Google image site for some fantastic views at this link: Ring of Kerry .

View near Sneem

We drove on along the coast to the village of Sneem where Charlie Chaplin and his family spent a lot of time over a number of years, and some family members still return annually. We fell in love with these little villages and would like to return and rent a condo for a couple of summer months, probably around Sneem (if it's good enough for Charlie...). We left Sneem and drove on to Kenmare, another beautiful little town, before ending our Ring of Kerry tour back at our hotel in Killarney. We had happy hour with Frank and Carol Ann, had a light dinner, and called it a day.