Friday, June 17, 2011

Up the Hudson River- NYC to Waterford

Bye, bye, NYC

We left our marina in NYC to head up the Hudson River and get into the NY Canal System. We timed our departure to coincide with slack water so we wouldn't have to fight the really strong tidal currents. The skies were overcast and it was going to be a dreary day. Our plans were to go into an anchorage in Haverstraw Bay, just a few miles short of West Point. This was only going to be around a 30 mile day, and because we left fairly early, we ambled our way up the river on an incoming tide. We were doing around 7 kts. at idle speed.

Grant's Tomb (cupola)
George Washington Bridge
Harlem at the Harlem River
Yonkers
Palisades
Tappan Zee light
The first sight we saw was Grant's tomb. We wanted to stop to see if anyone knew who was actually buried there, but decided to keep going. Next came Harlem and the Harlem River. We couldn't identify where the Clintons were living, but knew that they were in there somewhere. We passed under the George Washington and Tappan Zee bridges, passed the Palisades and Yonkers, then settled in for a leisurely excursion to Haverstraw Bay. We were hooked up with looper friends Dickie & Dixie, and Larry & Linda that we stayed with in NYC. We got to our anchorage around 1300, set the hook and relaxed and read our books for the greater part of the afternoon. Larry & Linda were also anchored with us, but Dickie & Dixie went further upriver to find a marina. In the anchorage, Capt. Larry reworked the BBQ grill which was banged around a couple of times coming into different slips. When he finished, the grill was presentable and didn't show too many signs of excessive abuse.

Bear Mountain Bridge
West Point
Go Army!
Hudson Valley highlands
Ruins at Pollepel Island
Vanderbilt mansion
Esopus Meadows light
Kingston light
Saugerties light
Hop-O-Nose marina
The next morning we were underway around 0630. We planned to do a 70+ mile day and make it into a marina in Catskill, NY. The skies were overcast again and threatening rain, but we again hooked up with an incoming tide and rode that practically the entire trip, making really good time. Shortly after we got underway we passed West Point, and just beyond the academy is the deepest part of the Hudson River which is charted as "World's End." When we passed over this hole the depth sounder read 179' making it the deepest water we will traverse on the loop. We are now in the Hudson Valley highlands and the scenery is absolutely captivating. We passed Pollepel Island which was used by an early 1900's arms merchant to store his goods. Lightening strikes and lack of use have now reduced these warehousing structures to ruins. As we passed the Newburgh Bridge, we got a radio call from Dickie and Dixie who saw us go by from their marina. We passed Poughskeepie and shortly after that Hyde Park. Hyde Park was the home of FDR, and is the home of Vanderbilt Mansion and the Culinary Institute. Also notable is the end of the salt water just a few miles further north around Esopus Island. Further north, we start to see a number of lighthouses that look more like houses than the tower-type lights seen along the coast. The southern sections of the Hudson are characterized by wide, deep channels with few islands or flats. Conversely, the upper sections of the river are peppered with numerous islands, mid-channel flats, and are fed by numerous creeks and streams. We made our way to Catskill Creek where the Hop-O-Nose Marina is located.
Jane kayaks on Catskill Creek
We would be spending two nights here to get some boat chores, fueling, and provisioning done before heading into the Erie Canal. It was a really pleasant stay. On the second day we were joined by Larry & Linda who would have their mast stepped before entering the canals.

Middle Ground Flats light
Coming into Albany
Troy lock & dam
Riding the pipe up 16 feet
The dam from the filled lock
We turn left
We left Hop-O-Nose's and headed for Albany, Troy, and Waterford, the start of the Erie Canal. It was a relatively uneventful trip until we got to the Troy Lock and Dam. Capt. Larry radioed the lockmaster and the gates were opened. Unlike the previous locks we experienced, this lock was equipped with vertical standpipes. One loops a line secured to an amidships cleat and holds the boat to the wall during the ride. It was up to Jane to get this line looped and hold the boat to the wall until Capt. Larry could leave the helm to assist. All that we will report is that this was a really emotional moment for her. She did, however, do an excellent job of securing the line and holding the boat until help arrived. Her biggest fear, of course, was losing the boat and causing us to drift in the lock. Unless one has previously performed these maneuvers, it's not something for weak-kneed individuals. But Jane was a real trooper. After the lock we made our way to the juncture of the Erie Canal and the Champlain Canal. We turned west to Waterford and tied up at the free dock. That night we ordered pizza and relaxed while we read about traversing the Erie Canal.
Hitching a ride on a debris taxi!

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