We Start Our Great Lakes Leg

Turn right for Niagara Falls!

The Peace Bridge

Boat drifting backwards down the Niagara

We left Tonawanda and made our way into the Niagara River. At the junction of Tonawanda Creek and the Niagara River, a right turn would send you down to the Niagara Falls just a few miles downstream. Naturally we turned left and started up the Niagara River towards Buffalo and Lake Erie. Judging from the tidal currents we had experienced in South Carolina and Georgia, we estimated the river current to be around 4 knots at this point. This current gradually kept increasing as we proceeded south, and by the time we got to the Black Rock Canal entrance, the current was close to 6-8 kts. At this section of the river there is a 5 foot drop that extends over 7 miles. The Black Rock Canal and Lock were constructed to bypass this section and give a 5 foot lift in calm waters. We witnessed a few speedy fishing boats chasing up the river and under the Peace Bridge. We had contemplated doing the same based on information given to us by Don & Kathy, but at the last minute we studied the swirling waters and chickened out. Black Rock Lock is on a restricted schedule and we arrived early, so we tied up to the wall and visited with a couple of other boaters. While we were waiting we noticed one boat that was obviously not under power and was going with the current in the river backwards!

Lake Erie entrance to Buffalo harbor

Capt. Larry got out the binoculars and saw someone in the boat, but we couldn't imagine that they were casually drifting by to save gas. We hope they made out OK. We locked through only to find a closed swingbridge. The vertical clearance was 17', but when we approached, it was obvious that we wouldn't clear it. The clearances are reduced when there is a south wind on Lake Erie that blows water into the canal. And we had south winds. The problem was that the bridge tender was hung up in traffic and late to work. We waited for almost an hour and finally got the bridge opened. We motored through the canal and into Buffalo harbor making a right turn into Lake Erie.

Buffalo harbor light

Dunkirk light

Happy hour at the yacht club

Sunset over Dunkirk, NY

Sunrise over Dunkirk, NY

When we left Buffalo harbor we we set a course that would take us into Dunkirk, NY. This was about a 45 mile run and we had reservations at the Dunkirk Yacht Club. We had not stayed at too many yacht clubs, but the people were so friendly and accommodating. Of course we arrived in a Friday night, and there was a major happy hour planned. We decided that we would bring a sausage and chicken jambalaya for about 30 people. Capt. Larry spent the afternoon cooking the jambalaya while Jane took care of all of the fixings. We brought the jambalaya to the happy hour and everyone were beside themselves with the dish. Of course, we had learned earlier that we just couldn't go wrong with this dish. We enjoyed meeting the yacht club members and telling our stories. The next day strolled through town so Jane could buy some souvenir gifts and visit the the post office. We had dockmaster Jim Christie and his wife Chris aboard our boat for drinks and snacks and visited with them for a couple of hours. Jim brought us onions, lettuce and herbs from his garden and Jane was so happy to receive the fresh produce. We were encouraged to stay at the yacht club to view the fireworks on the 4th, but fair weather prevailed and we thought it prudent to move on when the moving is good.

Entering Presque Isle and meeting the Niagara

Pennsylvania shore of Lake Erie

The next day we headed SW for Erie, PA and Presque Isle. The seas were a little rougher than the previous trip from Buffalo, but sometimes Lake Erie doesn't get much better. We arrived in Presque Isle and took on $600 worth of fuel and found our marina tucked into a snug little harbor. Most of the Canadians that came over for the weekend had left earlier that day, so we essentially had the marina to ourselves. We went out to a great dinner at a harbor restaurant and returned to the boat to enjoy another of Todd's movies.