A Medieval Baltic Gem- Tallinn Estonia

Tallinn, Estonia would be our next Baltic port of call, but before we arrived, we would spend one day at sea. Our sea day was a welcome break from the fast-paced and somewhat physically demanding efforts the shore excursion days require.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

We spent our sea day with Capt. Larry working on the blog, while Jane attended various lectures and talks that provided background and historical information about our upcoming Russian visit. We both attended a mid-morning cooking demonstration, and Jane attended talks about the works of Faberge and tsarist treasures, the legacy of imperial Russia, the history of Russian folk art, and the end of the Romanov dynasty.

Estonia's Parliament Building

In one sea day she became a Russian expert!

Tallinn is the capital and largest city of Estonia. With a population of approximately 450,000, Tallinn is home to about one-third of Estonia’s population. First appearing on a map in 1154, Tallinn received city rights in 1248. While experiencing alternating periods of Scandinavian and German rule, the city became a major trade hub in the 14^th to 16^th centuries when it grew in importance in the Hanseatic League. Today Tallinn is the major political, financial, and educational and cultural center for Estonia, and is often dubbed the Silicone Valley of Europe. It has been listed among the top 10 digital cities in the world.

Looking at us while we look at Lower Town

 
Arriving at Tallinn early in the morning, we had our first morning shore excursion, another walking tour, complements of our early 1430 departure time. We met our guide and group on the cruise terminal pier, and boarded buses for a short ride to Tallinn’s Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site (how many of these can there be?!).

Castle wall and "Fat Margaret" (l)

The Old Town is divided into Upper Town, or the heavily fortified Toompea Castle that sits atop the easily defended Dome or Cathedral Hill, and Lower Town, or the area below the hill and outside the castle walls.

We started our tour after riding up to Toompea at the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.

St. Mary;s tower

Great Guild Hall

Church or the Holy Spirit

Narrow 13th century street

This Russian Orthodox cathedral was built from 1894-1900 in the Russian Revival style when the country was part of the Russian Empire. It is Tallinn’s largest and grandest orthodox cupola cathedral. Across from the cathedral lies the Estonian Parliament Building that, like the cathedral, is undergoing renovation. Our guide next took us to an overlook that allowed us to look down onto the red roofs of Lower Town, which was a fantastic photo opportunity. We were led to a corner of the castle walls where a tower called “Fat Margaret” was built in the 16 ^th century as a fortification against would-be invaders.The tower measures 85 ft. in diameter, 72 ft. in height and has walls up to 17 ft. thick.

Garlic restaurant with garlic ice cream

Easily visible from sea, the tower was meant to impress outside visitors arriving by sea. Opposite the castle wall and towers, we viewed St. Mary’s Cathedral. Originally established by Danes in the 13^th century, it is the oldest church in Tallinn, being the only building in Toompea to survive a 17^th century fire. Previously a Roman Catholic cathedral, it was transformed into the Estonian Evangelical Lutheran Church by the Reformation.

Tallinn Town Hall and square

We followed our guide down a steep, cobblestoned (seems like every street in these old towns are cobblestone) street called “Short Street,” the fastest route to Lower Town. At the bottom of the declivity, a group member announced that he had been pick pocketed. He said that he felt something when everyone pressed together to descend the hill and was sans wallet at the bottom.

Hmmm... a Bowl of Hygeia

Our guide made some calls and told him to fill out a report when we got back to the ship, and the consulate would return his wallet should someone find it discarded.

Lower Town is one of the best preserved medieval towns in Europe and restoration projects are continuously being added.  Following the narrow 13^th century cobblestoned streets we came to the Great Guild House.

The Raeapteek Pharmacy

In times past, the Guild House was a major influence in local politics, and families would try to arrange marriages so membership in the guild could be obtained. The guild also represented Tallinn’s interests in the Hanseatic League. We found it amusing that right next to the Guild House was the Russian Consulate. The Church of the Holy Ghost was our next landmark. Built in the first half of the 13^th century, this Lutheran Church’s exterior has crow-stepped gables and an octagonal tower. Our guide took us to the expansive Town Hall Square which been adjacent to the Tallinn Town Hall since 1322. Today the square is used for festivals and concerts, as well as a market, street vendors, and restaurants and cafes.

Our guide gave us 20 minutes of ‘free time,’ so Jane went shopping while Capt. Larry went exploring. He had seen a pharmacy symbol, the Bowl of Hygeia, on the side of a building and went to investigate.

The Old Market

What a discovery when he found the Raeapteek Pharmacy which is one of the oldest pharmacies in Europe. Established in 1422 (the pharmacy we visited at the Franciscan monastery in Dubrovnik, Croatia, was established in 1317—almost a century earlier, so believe this blog and not what Google might say about this pharmacy being the oldest!), this pharmacy has continuously operated to the present day.

Tallest spire- St. Olaf's Church

What’s really interesting is that this pharmacy was run by 8 generations of a family descended from a Hungarian immigrant from 1582-1911, a span of over 325 years! Having had his day made, Capt. Larry reunited with Jane and the tour group and followed our guide through the Katarlina Passage to Muurivahe Lane where we were given another 20 minutes to shop for wool and linen goods that the street vendors offered.

Jane (l) shopping on Muurivahe Lane

Jane went into blitzkrieg shopping mode and started buying all matter of goods. Twenty minutes seemed like an eternity and couldn’t run out soon enough. When time was up, we rendezvoused with our group, boarded our bus, and rode back to the ship. Tallinn was an absolutely fantastic port of call and someplace we’d like to come back to.