We Leave Lima for a Day in the Sacred Valley

March 27: Day 4. Another early day with bags out and breakfast at 0430 hrs. Today we fly to Cusco to make our way to Machu Picchu. We leave our hotel at 0530 check in at the Lima airport for our LATAM flight to Cusco departing at 0845.

Outskirts of Cusco

As we approach Cusco, we are struck by the steepness and ruggedness of the Andean mountains. And at an altitude of 12,000 feet, we wonder what effect the thin air will have on us. Our plane lands and we get our answer. Cusco has a small airport and there is no jetway to greet us. Instead we have to descend the air stairs and lug our carry-ons about 60 yards to the luggage terminal.

Sacred Valley, Urubamba River and mountains

And of course you can’t go “as the crow flies,” but are required to follow a longer route laid out with plastic cones. By the time we get to the terminal our hearts are pounding rapidly and we are gasping for air. We are barely recovered when our heavy, checked luggage arrives and we are out of the terminal with all of our luggage for a 200-yard slog to our buses.

BIG kernals!

 Since the buses are smaller to navigate the narrow mountain roads and switchbacks, our group is divided in two: Llamas and Alpacas. We are with David and Linda in the Llama group.

We ride out of Cusco and through the mountains on our way to Urubamba and the Sacred Valley. This valley stretches from present-day Pisac to Ollantaytambo(oy-an-tay-TOM-bow) and was incorporated into the Incan Empire. The valley is irrigated by the Urubamba River which provides a rich, fertile soil for agriculture.

Welcome to Pisac!

Farmers raise their crops on terraces as well as the floodplains. Our buses stop at a roadside rest overlooking the valley which gives us spectacular vistas of the mountains, valley, and river. Our tour director tells us about the various crops that are raised in the valley, and in particular, corn or maize which is so important to the Incan and Peruvian diets.

Hacienda dining room

He shows us ears of corn that are variously colored and represent the many different types of corn raised by the farmers. We are struck by the size of the corn kernels which are 2–3 times the size of corn kernels we generally consume. Driving on we enter the valley at the town of Pisac. Driving through Pisac we spot roadside statues of guinea pigs in various comical poses. Our guide informs us that guinea pig, or cuy, is a staple protein in many parts of Peru.

Let's eat!

As we drive on we see several eating establishments grilling spitted guinea pigs on outdoor ovens. The notion of eating guinea pig is shocking to many on our bus, but Capt. Larry is wondering to himself what they must taste like!

Speaking of eating, it’s getting close to lunchtime. Our buses take us to the Sacred Valley village of Huayocarri (WHY-oh-car-ee) where we will have lunch at the Hacienda Huayocarri restaurant. Huayoccari (WHY-oh-car-ee) where we will lunch at the Hacienda Huayoccari Restaurant. The Hacienda houses the owners’ private collection of pre-Colombian, Incan, and colonial artifacts. We are welcomed to the dining room with a pisco sour and then served our meal.

Owners' ceramic collection

The food focuses on hearty, traditional Andean fare and we are told that all ingredients are organic and from local farms. We finish our lunch, browse through the pottery and artifact collection, and head outside to tour the beautiful grounds. We board our bus and are driven a short distance to a farmhouse with a barn and what appears to be a large parade ground.

Gaucho and his Paso

We are seated on folding chairs set up alongside the parade ground and told that we were going to see a Peruvian Paso horse demonstration. The Peruvian Paso is a horse breed known for its, ambling ride. Peruvian breeders bred the horses to be strong, hardy animals that were comfortable to ride, easy to control, and had good endurance. After the introduction, the barn door opens and out rides a gaucho on a Paso demonstrating the horse’s ambling gait and smooth ride.

Traditional dance and dress

The rider is joined by other gauchos on Passos which shows us the horse’s different gaits and agility. After the Paso demonstration, we are treated to a traditional Peruvian music and dance performance with the performers dressed in their traditional garb. We leave the Hacienda and are driven to the Tambo del Inka Hotel in Urubamba to spend the night.

Ole!

After dinner with David and Linda, we decide to pass on the evening’s outdoor musical presentation since we are tired and not feeling our best.